Après l'effort , le réconfort : TOM FORD 2012
Nous faire languir disait-il, la rendre exclusive rapportaient certains , Mégalomania chuchotaient les autres.
Pas sur que l'écrémage un peu lourd de Tom Ford ai fonctionné cette saison...
Si les américaines botoxées de Dallas ont adorées l'ambiance Amour, Gloire et Beauté ; Les petites françaises elles ( grandes dans l'esprit mais petites par la taille ) en sont restées Bouché-bée. Sans voix, sans commentaire.
Bien sûr, il y ' a celle qui sort du lot : nous parlons de l'aventurière Virgine Mouzat, rédactrice mode du Madame Figaro au franc-parler singulier de Moogli dans le livre de la Jungle " Fashion ".
Voici donc la critique Illustrée par les quelques looks de la Spring 2012 de Tom Ford. Bonne lecture
Lorena-li , 21 Novembre 2011
« Non, nous ne voulons pas de journalistes, pas de critiques, pas de quotidien à la présentation Tom Ford. Que des rédactrices de mode… » , c’était en substance le mail reçu en réponse à une demande d’accès, en bonne et due forme, à la troisième saison du designer américain Tom Ford, dont deux à Londres.
Une semaine plus tard, changement de cap, nouveau mail, invitation à une présentation. Toute la presse est là. Commence ainsi ce qui va lentement tourner au cauchemar.
Dès les premiers passages, on est frappé par l’apparence démodée d’une collection façon Gucci d’il y a plus de dix ans. Les complications chichiteuses des coupes (lien coulissant, fronces, taille haute juponnant sur le ventre, manches gigot…), la coiffure chahutée pour fille à peine sortie d’un « cinq à sept » et le make-up en font trop. Les mannequins sont littéralement barbouillés de fond de teint, de rouge à lèvres over glossy couleur Ferrari, d’ombre à paupières charbonneuse. Sur la soie cloquée, le violet associé au damier noir et blanc augmente d’un cran le stress rétinien.
Dès les premiers passages, on est frappé par l’apparence démodée d’une collection façon Gucci d’il y a plus de dix ans. Les complications chichiteuses des coupes (lien coulissant, fronces, taille haute juponnant sur le ventre, manches gigot…), la coiffure chahutée pour fille à peine sortie d’un « cinq à sept » et le make-up en font trop. Les mannequins sont littéralement barbouillés de fond de teint, de rouge à lèvres over glossy couleur Ferrari, d’ombre à paupières charbonneuse. Sur la soie cloquée, le violet associé au damier noir et blanc augmente d’un cran le stress rétinien.
La surcharge, c’est le maître mot de ce défilé. Tel un catalogue ambulant, sur un mannequin s’empilent les accessoires et les emprunts : la nouvelle montre ? Elle ressemble à la Tank de Cartier. L’escarpin lacé sur la cheville ? Un ersatz d’un modèle Alaïa. Le jogging en cuir noir ? Déjà vu dans la croisière Céline, l’année dernière, tout comme les sandales à brides gourmette (ici, incrustée de strass). La robe hérissée de volants en raphia ? Une pâle version de celles d’Yves Saint Laurent du printemps-été 1967. Divisée en thèmes (sportswear, jour, cocktail, dîner, soirée…) afin de mimer la tradition qui voulait qu’une femme se change plusieurs fois par jour, la collection Tom Ford fait de sa cliente la même à toute heure, une professionnelle… de la vulgarité.
Entendons-nous, la vulgarité peut être un adjuvant intéressant, une attitude rafraîchissante parfois. Ici, en revanche, aucune ironie possible avec sa définition littérale. Tom Ford, ce pape du glam, fût-il porno-chic, embarrasse.
Les minutes qui vont suivre enfoncent ce pénible fashion faux pas. À la fin de cet inventaire pour Kim Kardashian, Tom Ford apparaît. S’avance. Et reste là, dans la travée centrale, demandant aux gens de se lever. Par angoisse peut être, par sympathie, parce que tout cela est censé être festif. Mais tout le monde regarde ses pieds. La musique ne baisse pas. Ford cherche à parler sur le son, plus fort. On n’entend rien. On voit juste cet homme au visage de bébé chercher désespérément à détendre l’atmosphère. Il se jette sur son compagnon de toujours, Richard Buckley, et l’embrasse (Ralph Lauren embrasse systématiquement son épouse Ricky à la fin de ses défilés, mais lui repart en backstage ensuite). Sauf qu’ici on ne se lève toujours pas. Alors Tom Ford recule vers Anna Wintour et c’est maintenant elle qu’il a décidé d’embrasser. Gênant.
Finalement, on se dit que ce play-boy texan, que les journalistes encensaient lors de ses années Gucci, est devenu celui pour lequel on ne se lève pas. Si ce n’est celui qu’on fuit. Mais de cette scène, comme des looks, vous ne verrez rien ici. Tom Ford refuse de diffuser les photos de ses shows.
« Non, nous ne voulons pas de journalistes, pas de critiques, pas de quotidien à la présentation Tom Ford. Que des rédactrices de mode… » , c’était en substance le mail reçu en réponse à une demande d’accès, en bonne et due forme, à la troisième saison du designer américain Tom Ford, dont deux à Londres.
Une semaine plus tard, changement de cap, nouveau mail, invitation à une présentation. Toute la presse est là. Commence ainsi ce qui va lentement tourner au cauchemar.
Dès les premiers passages, on est frappé par l’apparence démodée d’une collection façon Gucci d’il y a plus de dix ans. Les complications chichiteuses des coupes (lien coulissant, fronces, taille haute juponnant sur le ventre, manches gigot…), la coiffure chahutée pour fille à peine sortie d’un « cinq à sept » et le make-up en font trop. Les mannequins sont littéralement barbouillés de fond de teint, de rouge à lèvres over glossy couleur Ferrari, d’ombre à paupières charbonneuse. Sur la soie cloquée, le violet associé au damier noir et blanc augmente d’un cran le stress rétinien.
Dès les premiers passages, on est frappé par l’apparence démodée d’une collection façon Gucci d’il y a plus de dix ans. Les complications chichiteuses des coupes (lien coulissant, fronces, taille haute juponnant sur le ventre, manches gigot…), la coiffure chahutée pour fille à peine sortie d’un « cinq à sept » et le make-up en font trop. Les mannequins sont littéralement barbouillés de fond de teint, de rouge à lèvres over glossy couleur Ferrari, d’ombre à paupières charbonneuse. Sur la soie cloquée, le violet associé au damier noir et blanc augmente d’un cran le stress rétinien.
La surcharge, c’est le maître mot de ce défilé. Tel un catalogue ambulant, sur un mannequin s’empilent les accessoires et les emprunts : la nouvelle montre ? Elle ressemble à la Tank de Cartier. L’escarpin lacé sur la cheville ? Un ersatz d’un modèle Alaïa. Le jogging en cuir noir ? Déjà vu dans la croisière Céline, l’année dernière, tout comme les sandales à brides gourmette (ici, incrustée de strass). La robe hérissée de volants en raphia ? Une pâle version de celles d’Yves Saint Laurent du printemps-été 1967. Divisée en thèmes (sportswear, jour, cocktail, dîner, soirée…) afin de mimer la tradition qui voulait qu’une femme se change plusieurs fois par jour, la collection Tom Ford fait de sa cliente la même à toute heure, une professionnelle… de la vulgarité.
Entendons-nous, la vulgarité peut être un adjuvant intéressant, une attitude rafraîchissante parfois. Ici, en revanche, aucune ironie possible avec sa définition littérale. Tom Ford, ce pape du glam, fût-il porno-chic, embarrasse.
Les minutes qui vont suivre enfoncent ce pénible fashion faux pas. À la fin de cet inventaire pour Kim Kardashian, Tom Ford apparaît. S’avance. Et reste là, dans la travée centrale, demandant aux gens de se lever. Par angoisse peut être, par sympathie, parce que tout cela est censé être festif. Mais tout le monde regarde ses pieds. La musique ne baisse pas. Ford cherche à parler sur le son, plus fort. On n’entend rien. On voit juste cet homme au visage de bébé chercher désespérément à détendre l’atmosphère. Il se jette sur son compagnon de toujours, Richard Buckley, et l’embrasse (Ralph Lauren embrasse systématiquement son épouse Ricky à la fin de ses défilés, mais lui repart en backstage ensuite). Sauf qu’ici on ne se lève toujours pas. Alors Tom Ford recule vers Anna Wintour et c’est maintenant elle qu’il a décidé d’embrasser. Gênant.
Finalement, on se dit que ce play-boy texan, que les journalistes encensaient lors de ses années Gucci, est devenu celui pour lequel on ne se lève pas. Si ce n’est celui qu’on fuit. Mais de cette scène, comme des looks, vous ne verrez rien ici. Tom Ford refuse de diffuser les photos de ses shows.
Source : Le Figaro "Tom Ford, inclassable" daté du 22 septembre
Uncle Karl has done it again......
European branches of Sephora......then again it would not be a Lagerfeld original it it were sold everywhere. No worries I will be sure to head over to Sephora on Champs to see, if this will be my new scent.
Emma Watson has become the new groupie for "Tresor" Lancome. In comparison to the older Tresor campaigns, this has a much younger feel (the Tresor campiagn with Kate Winslet is one of my all time favorite ) and will appeal to a much younger market. Just as playful as her pixie haircut, Emma plays a tease in this light spirited story- much like Tresor Midnight Rose. The fragrance campaign was shot by Mario Testino. by Emily Daccarett October 8, 2011
Karlie Kloss Top Model for Paris Fashion Week
The young American sweetheart stole the spotlight during Paris Fashion Week. It seemed like everywhere you went, there was Karlie strutting her stuff ( even with a knee injury that didn't stop her). The 19 year old racked in some very good bookings. She opened for Jean Paul Gaultier and John Galliano, not to mention closing for Christian Dior, Lanvin, Elie Saab, Gareth Pugh, and Roland Mouret. Nicely done! Karlie had some help on the runways as well, with a cameo from Kate Moss, who closed the Marc Jacob's final collection at Louis Vuitton. The very beautifull Gisele Bindchen closed for Givenchy and some appearances from Natalia Vodianova. By Emily Daccarett October 6, 2011
Alexis Bitter Accuses Kimmy Kardashian of playing "Copycat"
have my ways), there on the top floor awaited Terry and Carine sitting side by side signing there books ( Carine Roitfeld irreverent/ Terry Richardson Mom and Dad).
Even though it felt like 40 degrees, Carine looked as cool and chic as ever. One would think meeting Vogue France's former editor in chief would have you stuttering, but Carine's sweetness soothed away all insecurities and shyness. Making every message personal, she made you feel like she genuinely cared and was delighted to meet you. With her sweet as honey voice, she asked questions about your life and patiently took pictures with everyone. Including a very devoted fan who brought her a bouquet of flowers and a folder, of which I assumed it was filled with his work.
Although many girls proudly wore Terry's signature on their cleavage, I decided to have it on a more permanent place, on my "Mom" book. Keeping to his roots, Terry was very relaxed and joked around with everyone. Not a bad way to spend a saturday afternoon. by Emily Daccarett October 3, 2011
Katty Xiomara <<Butterfly Effect>>
The <<Butterfly Effect>> derives its name from the theoretical example of a hurricane's formation being contingent on whether or not a distant butterfly had flapped its wings several weeks before." Through protections and choreography, Katty Xiomara, shows through her collection how the most fragile being can revolutionize a whole universe. The looks are mainly composed by fluid cottons, satins, and knits. They are very airy and delicate, as if they had been placed on the models ever so slightly.
As soon as you walked in, coups of champagne awaited you at the bar, once adequately equipped, it was time to climb the stairs and fall into the <<Butterfly Effect>>.
Whether you were enchanted by the elegant arm movements or staring at the rotating platform, the casualness of the showing (cocktail show) allowed you to partake in the experience. The harsh lighting and music opposed the delicateness of the outfits. The models quietly walked throughout the gallery, resembling the gentleness of a fluttering butterfly. At times it was like a game, having to spot where the next model was and where she would go off too.
By Emily Daccarett October 3 2011
Kanye West - "Here I come"
"This is no J.Lo basics line. I adore him and I think he is such a passionate and genuine artist in every sense of the word." - Jeremy Scott
Lilo, Dean and Dan Caten, Bar Refaell, Leigh Lezark, Ellen Von Unwerth, Karlie Koss, Anja Rubic, and Jared Leto all showed their support by partying up with Kanye West at his after party. Kanye made a point to state this was not a celeb endorsed fashion line of jeans and a selection of his favorite t-shirts. For years now we have had a lot of singers/actors (even their offspring) come out with a clothing line and declaring themselves fashion designers. As if being a designer only requires knowing what's "hot" and what colors are in. It takes time, practice, technique, understanding the body, construction, textiles, drape, cut........I think I have made my point. Mastering the ladder or even having a notion does not happen over night.
It was nice to hear Mr. West giving credit to his team of designers and supporters as well as the people who did not believe in him ( Nike and LV not agreeing to do a second sneaker collaboration). He asked us to be kind on his first collection, so all I will say is that, it is a relief to know that he is aware he has a lot of growing to do. by Emily Daccarett October 3, 2011
Berlin Goes to Paris
Berlin has become one of the hottest places to go for fashion. Many fashion insiders are declaring it the trendiest and edgy city in Europe. Berlin already holds over 800 designers and labels hard at work. We are lucky enough to get a firsthand look at some of this very talented artists in Tranoi, held in Le Carrousel du Louvre.
Some of the Berlin labels include:
THU THU, 24 year old designer, Thyu Doung gets her inspiration from her home country, Vietnam as well as East Germany, post fall of the wall. She uses hand-crafted Vietnamese textiles to build a fondation for a new kind of urban beauty " that contains echoes of distant places and older times".
Valimir Karaleev, creates innovative, silhouettes that are influenced by geometric structures. His Spring Summer 2012 collection explores "reformation" which is a reinvention of different figures and shapes
(reversal of classic details like collars) and body hugging pieces are combined with bulky voluminous styles.
F.Rau, designer Martina Rau plays with creative disorder in organized pathways. She likes her garments to express generosity, dynamism and vividness by working with classical cuts and elaborate draping. Monochromatic colors have become her trademark. The first F. Rau concept store opened up in Berlin on July 2011.
Tranoi has many gems to discover, including many local designers- Viva the Tradeshows!!!!
by Emily Daccarett September 30 2011
Meet Ylias Nacer
Sometimes it just takes one picture to capture your attention and after that you are hooked for good. After taking a look at what is sure to be a beautiful collection, I can say that is exactly what happened to me............
Come October 3rd to the 4th, Boucheron hosts the first collection of the very talented Ylias Nacer.
"It fuses the Parisian tradition of fashion with centuries-old
THE OUTNET.COM
Who says you need to beilive in Santa Claus to recieve great Christmas gifts! Thanks to THE OUTNET gift guide, you will be able to get everyone on your Holiday list the designer's best ( or keep them all to yourself, we won't judge). THE OUTNET, is an online shopping store where you can find amazing designer goods for even more fantastic prices. It was launched in April 2009 by the founders of Net-A-Porter.com and has become one of the trendiest sites to find exclusives on over 200 different brands. Another plus- they can help you form current season trends with previous seasons with "Dress Me" section that includes editorial content. Some of the goodies featured on the "gift guide".........
College Shop
Keeping to it's reputation of launching out new young designers, College Shop (linked to London College of fashion) is a pop-up retail store where you can find luxury, affordable pieces by future designers. The pieces will rotate, allowing all one-of- a- kind designs from recent graduates to be seen. Younger designers included: William Tempest Ada Zanditon, Beatrice Boyle, and Hasan Hejazi. Thos shop will only run from september 9th to the 28th. by Emily Daccrett September 28 2011
Gucci Palazzo Party
Charlotte Casiraghi, Abbie Cornish, Camilla Belle, Lapo Elkann, were just some of the celebrities who walked on the black carpet for the opening of the Gucci Museum monday evening (september 27th) in Florence. Gucci creative director Frida Giannini gushed about her first Gucci piece, a pair of stiletto pumps with a super long toe (very 90's). Her favorite brand memories are from the Seventies, such as her mom's Flora foulard and her small trunk. The Palazzo Vecchio was decorated with beautifully styled barrel vaults and gilt-stuccoed columns - a romantic seeting for the cocktail party. As for the entertainment, non other than Giannini's "iconic artist", Debbie Harry of Blondie, who performed "Call Me" and "Heart of Glass". Perfect ending to a great evening. by Emily Daccarett September 27 2011
Mr. West has always been a fashion lover and is about to show just how much he loves it with his first runway show. Although he has designed a sneaker collection for Louis Vuitton in the past, Kanye recruited London fashion students to work on his collection, ( good for him because designing a sneaker collection and having to make a full women's wear line - very different). He has also been working with Harper's Bazaar fashion editor Christine Centenera. We will soon see. by Emily Daccarett September 27 2011
No need to rush over to your local farmer's market, Moschino Cheap and Chic has all the produce you need to keep you healthy and above all stylish. Starting with the radish seed invitations and a venu that would make Monoprix cry, Rossella Jardini let her green thumb take over Milan. Many short girly frocks in prints of radishes, carrots, wheat, and grass that seemed to be watercolored on made their way down the catwalk. Giant apple appliques and a strawberry dress with black jet beads represented the fruit on this colorful menu. This collection is very young and frilly and does not take itself too seriously (it's hard not to laugh at the model stabbed in the head with a carrot). Another highlight- Moschino's fruit and flower stalls were real so guests got to fill their bags with fresh goods! by Emily Daccarett September 24 2011
Pour tout savoir sur la carrière audacieuse de l'ex-prêtresse de Vogue France, rendez-vous le 18 octobre prochain lors de la sortie de son premier livre, intitulé '" Irreverent " (éditions Rizzoli USA). Dans cet ouvrage très personnel de 368 pages, c'est avec ses meilleures éditoriales et ses shootings pour Vogue (annotées de sa propre main) , à l'appui qu'elle livre enfin ses mémoires.
Qui aurait cru que c'est par la petite porte que la fashion business woman de 56 ans avait percé dans la mode ?
Repérée à Paris, à l'âge de 18 ans, dans les années 80 elle devient rédactrice et styliste à Elle magazine, puis ensuite la consultante et la muse de Tom Ford - pendant sa période " porno-chic " chez Gucci.
Depuis son départ de Vogue France en janvier dernier, (elle avait laissé sa place à Emmanuelle Alt) après 10 ans à la tête du célèbre magazine de mode, Carine Roitfeld enchaîne les projets personnels, notamment aux États-Unis.
" Irreverent " est actuellement disponible en pré-commande sur colette.fr et Amazon.com. Prix : 82 euros.
Un deuxième livre signé Carine Roitfeld, une co-édition avec Karl Lagerfeld, est prévu pour le mois de décembre.
LA ROBE HUITRE DE PIPPA MIDDLETON A LA FASHION WEEK LONDONIENNE
On se demande désormais comment on a pu faire pour passer à côté de Pippa Middleton avant le mariage de sa soeur Kate Middleton avec le Prince William ! Désormais, on la voit à tous les événements, etsimple sortie dans la rue crée l'événement !
Evidemment, en tant que nouvelle icône, Pippa Middleton ne pouvait pas passer à côté de la Fashion week à Londres… Elle s'y est donc rendue dès hier, et a dû bien profiter des défilés, puisqu'elle était assise au premier rang, entre l'actrice Rosario Dawson et la célébrité fêtarde Peaches Geldof.
Pour être raccord avec le défilé Temperley qu'elle était venue regarder, Pippa Middleton portait une courte robe Temperley noire et crème et des bottines noires. Pour mémoire, c'est Alice Temperley elle-même qui avait dessiné la longue robe turquoise portée par Pippa Middleton lors de la réception qui a suivi le mariage de sa soeur Kate avec le Prince William. A l'époque déjà, cette tenue n'était pas passée inaperçue, même si c'est la robe blanche Alexander McQueen qui avait fait sensation ce jour là, et révélé Pippa aux yeux du monde entier en quelques heures.
En étant une nouvelle fois le centre d'attention de la foule et des photographes lors de la Fashion week au défilé Temperley, Pippa Middleton aura certainement fait oublier le "faux-pas" dont l'a accusé la presse britannique tout le week-end : elle s'était en effet rendue au mariage d'un ami vêtue d'une tenue vert clair, considérée comme une couleur portant malchance si elle est portée le jour d'un mariage.
EMILY BLUNT NOUVELLE EGERIE D OPIUM DE YSL
Rien ne semble freiner l’ascension fulgurante d’Emily Blunt. L’actrice britannique, qui était récemment de passage au FIFT pour la première de son film Salmon Fishing in the Yemen, est désormais la nouvelle égérie du parfum Opium d’Yves Saint Laurent. Voici le commentaire qu’elle a émis concernant le fait d’avoir la chance de représenter ce parfum classique, qui disparaît littéralement des tablettes, depuis les années 70 : «C’est une expérience extraordinaire que de représenter ce parfum de légende qui a traversé le temps sans jamais voir son pouvoir altéré.» Nous attendons donc avec grande impatience le lancement de la campagne orchestrée par Patrick Demarchelier, qui aura lieu au mois d’octobre. Tout ce que nous savons, pour l’instant, c’est qu’un léopard bien en chair et en os sera de la partie. Besoin d’en dire plus?
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| Alexis Bitter's necklace on the left |
Alexis Bitter Accuses Kimmy Kardashian of playing "Copycat"
Just the other day jewelry designer, Alexis Bitter, was taking a walk, when suddenly something caught his eye.........what could it have been?
Well he noticed that Kim Kardashian's new jewelry for Belle Noel
(her jewelry line) looked a lot like some of his pieces. Even more
fishy, they resembled the same pieces he had sent her in the past
to wear. Taking the high road, Alexis has decided not to sue.
Admirably, he has given gone to say that he thinks she probably had nothing
to do with it. The only thing is, he he will not be sending
her any more gifts. by Emily Daccarett October 5, 2011
Double Double Book Signing chez Colette
What a treat here in Paris this past saturday, both Terry Richardson and Carine Roitfeld spent the day in Colette meeting their many admirers. Bypassing the line outside the store and first floor (shhhhhh I 
have my ways), there on the top floor awaited Terry and Carine sitting side by side signing there books ( Carine Roitfeld irreverent/ Terry Richardson Mom and Dad). Even though it felt like 40 degrees, Carine looked as cool and chic as ever. One would think meeting Vogue France's former editor in chief would have you stuttering, but Carine's sweetness soothed away all insecurities and shyness. Making every message personal, she made you feel like she genuinely cared and was delighted to meet you. With her sweet as honey voice, she asked questions about your life and patiently took pictures with everyone. Including a very devoted fan who brought her a bouquet of flowers and a folder, of which I assumed it was filled with his work.
Although many girls proudly wore Terry's signature on their cleavage, I decided to have it on a more permanent place, on my "Mom" book. Keeping to his roots, Terry was very relaxed and joked around with everyone. Not a bad way to spend a saturday afternoon. by Emily Daccarett October 3, 2011
Katty Xiomara <<Butterfly Effect>>
The <<Butterfly Effect>> derives its name from the theoretical example of a hurricane's formation being contingent on whether or not a distant butterfly had flapped its wings several weeks before." Through protections and choreography, Katty Xiomara, shows through her collection how the most fragile being can revolutionize a whole universe. The looks are mainly composed by fluid cottons, satins, and knits. They are very airy and delicate, as if they had been placed on the models ever so slightly.As soon as you walked in, coups of champagne awaited you at the bar, once adequately equipped, it was time to climb the stairs and fall into the <<Butterfly Effect>>.
Whether you were enchanted by the elegant arm movements or staring at the rotating platform, the casualness of the showing (cocktail show) allowed you to partake in the experience. The harsh lighting and music opposed the delicateness of the outfits. The models quietly walked throughout the gallery, resembling the gentleness of a fluttering butterfly. At times it was like a game, having to spot where the next model was and where she would go off too. By Emily Daccarett October 3 2011
Kanye West - "Here I come"
"This is no J.Lo basics line. I adore him and I think he is such a passionate and genuine artist in every sense of the word." - Jeremy Scott
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| Chanel Iman, Kanye West, Sky Ferreira |
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| Lindsay Lohan |
It was nice to hear Mr. West giving credit to his team of designers and supporters as well as the people who did not believe in him ( Nike and LV not agreeing to do a second sneaker collaboration). He asked us to be kind on his first collection, so all I will say is that, it is a relief to know that he is aware he has a lot of growing to do. by Emily Daccarett October 3, 2011
Berlin Goes to Paris
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| THU THU |
Some of the Berlin labels include:
THU THU, 24 year old designer, Thyu Doung gets her inspiration from her home country, Vietnam as well as East Germany, post fall of the wall. She uses hand-crafted Vietnamese textiles to build a fondation for a new kind of urban beauty " that contains echoes of distant places and older times".
 |
| Valimer Karaleev |
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| AjoutF. Rau |
(reversal of classic details like collars) and body hugging pieces are combined with bulky voluminous styles.
F.Rau, designer Martina Rau plays with creative disorder in organized pathways. She likes her garments to express generosity, dynamism and vividness by working with classical cuts and elaborate draping. Monochromatic colors have become her trademark. The first F. Rau concept store opened up in Berlin on July 2011.
Tranoi has many gems to discover, including many local designers- Viva the Tradeshows!!!!
by Emily Daccarett September 30 2011
Meet Ylias Nacer
Sometimes it just takes one picture to capture your attention and after that you are hooked for good. After taking a look at what is sure to be a beautiful collection, I can say that is exactly what happened to me............Come October 3rd to the 4th, Boucheron hosts the first collection of the very talented Ylias Nacer.
"It fuses the Parisian tradition of fashion with centuries-old with craftmanship from the city of Fez".
Taking a look at his picture, (featuring one of the looks), we see exactly that. A mix between structure and fluidity, he has kept the essence of Parisian chic and combined it with Moroccan sensuality.
"It will, hopefully, be the first step in the syncretism of
other historical cultures and perceptions." - Ylias Nacer
Born in France, he spent his childhood in a remote land between Ethiopia and Somalia. Which can be seen clearly in his choice of colors, it is rich in color and history. He spent 5 years assisting fashion editors such as, Sarajane Hoare, Marie-Amelie Suave and Julia Von Boehm. In which after resulted in new adventure. Stay tuned to see what Mr. Nacer will unveil Monday October 3rd. by Emily Daccarett September 29 2011
THE OUTNET.COM
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| Rare Opulance (THE OUTNET exclusive) 253 euros |
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| Phillip Lim 334 euros |
 Alexander McQueen 282 euros |
| Well if you'll excuse me, I have some shopping to do.....I trust you do too! by Emily Daccarett September 29 2011 |
Keeping to it's reputation of launching out new young designers, College Shop (linked to London College of fashion) is a pop-up retail store where you can find luxury, affordable pieces by future designers. The pieces will rotate, allowing all one-of- a- kind designs from recent graduates to be seen. Younger designers included: William Tempest Ada Zanditon, Beatrice Boyle, and Hasan Hejazi. Thos shop will only run from september 9th to the 28th. by Emily Daccrett September 28 2011
Homage to the great Corinne Day
A mist all the buzz during London fashion week, an exhibition (The Face) showcasing some of the late Corinne Day's photographs was held in the National Portrait Gallery in London. Corrine Day (fashion photographer) is credited for the phenomenon that is Kate Moss. Her style and perception of photography influenced the early 1990s, she brought an edgier documentary-like look to fashion image making. The exhibition is still going on just until the first of october. by Emily Daccarett September 28 2011
London Fashion Week Recap
It may be over, but London Fashion Week has left quite a big impact on the rest of us. British designers Erdem and Jonathan Saunders, whose creations have been worn by Samantha Cameron and Michelle Obama, really stood out this year. About 2 thousand people asked to have an invitation for the much anticipated Jonathan Saunders' show, and after seeing what he did with cashmere printed dresses that number will undoubtedly rise for his Fall 2012 show. Another name to mention is 27 year old J.W. Anderson, who mixes different techniques, materials, and influences which resulted in monochromatic - rich meets poor. See for yourselves..........
Lilo was spotted flying to Lake Como, (Bellagio, Italy), to take
her role in the campaign for new comer Philip Plein. The shoot location was done on a beautiful staircase hovering above a large body of water, Italian tress, and clear blue skies- Que Bella! Lindsay wore a white leopard-print, floor-length gown with jewel detail and also a little red, white, and blue number, (cropped red leather jacket paired with matching red sky scrapper heels).
She attended Philipp Pleins' show as his "special guest" during Milan Fashion Week, and has been wearing his designs ever since. Not bad publicity for the new designer.
A little rumor has started that Lilo and Philip got much closer than expected, i guess only time will tell it it's true. by Emily Daccarett September 28 2011
A mist all the buzz during London fashion week, an exhibition (The Face) showcasing some of the late Corinne Day's photographs was held in the National Portrait Gallery in London. Corrine Day (fashion photographer) is credited for the phenomenon that is Kate Moss. Her style and perception of photography influenced the early 1990s, she brought an edgier documentary-like look to fashion image making. The exhibition is still going on just until the first of october. by Emily Daccarett September 28 2011
London Fashion Week Recap
It may be over, but London Fashion Week has left quite a big impact on the rest of us. British designers Erdem and Jonathan Saunders, whose creations have been worn by Samantha Cameron and Michelle Obama, really stood out this year. About 2 thousand people asked to have an invitation for the much anticipated Jonathan Saunders' show, and after seeing what he did with cashmere printed dresses that number will undoubtedly rise for his Fall 2012 show. Another name to mention is 27 year old J.W. Anderson, who mixes different techniques, materials, and influences which resulted in monochromatic - rich meets poor. See for yourselves..........
step inside the mind of J.W. Anderson
by Emily Daccarett September 28 2011
Lindsay Lohan New Face of Philipp PleinLilo was spotted flying to Lake Como, (Bellagio, Italy), to take
She attended Philipp Pleins' show as his "special guest" during Milan Fashion Week, and has been wearing his designs ever since. Not bad publicity for the new designer.
A little rumor has started that Lilo and Philip got much closer than expected, i guess only time will tell it it's true. by Emily Daccarett September 28 2011
Gucci Palazzo Party
Charlotte Casiraghi, Abbie Cornish, Camilla Belle, Lapo Elkann, were just some of the celebrities who walked on the black carpet for the opening of the Gucci Museum monday evening (september 27th) in Florence. Gucci creative director Frida Giannini gushed about her first Gucci piece, a pair of stiletto pumps with a super long toe (very 90's). Her favorite brand memories are from the Seventies, such as her mom's Flora foulard and her small trunk. The Palazzo Vecchio was decorated with beautifully styled barrel vaults and gilt-stuccoed columns - a romantic seeting for the cocktail party. As for the entertainment, non other than Giannini's "iconic artist", Debbie Harry of Blondie, who performed "Call Me" and "Heart of Glass". Perfect ending to a great evening. by Emily Daccarett September 27 2011
Kanye West presenting in the City of Lights
Mr. West has always been a fashion lover and is about to show just how much he loves it with his first runway show. Although he has designed a sneaker collection for Louis Vuitton in the past, Kanye recruited London fashion students to work on his collection, ( good for him because designing a sneaker collection and having to make a full women's wear line - very different). He has also been working with Harper's Bazaar fashion editor Christine Centenera. We will soon see. by Emily Daccarett September 27 2011Make Way for the Young
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| Olivier Rousteing |
Little Olivier Rousteing just 25 years old and already has made quite a name for himself, he took over as chief designer at Balmain in April and is about to send out his first womenswear collection this week. Kenzo's new design duo Humberto Leon and Carol Lim are about to make their debut. The two had launched the Opening Ceremony fashion store-cum-gallery spaces in New York and Tokyo. Another design duo to look out for is Ling-Liu and Dawel Sun, who will be showing thier first collection for Cacharel. Yoshiyuki Miyamae, longtime employee, will be the one taking the bow this time and british designer Clare Waight Keller will present her first PAP as chief designer at Chloe.
by Emily Daccarett Sepetember 27 2011
Paris Fashion Week
After shows in New York, London, and Milan finalment Paris! Starting of Fashion week were a host of young designers such as Harry Halim and Thimister. During this week the new designers for Issey Mikyake, Kenzo, Cacharel, and Balmain will be taking thier first bow. So Grab your Loubies (my advice take a pair of black flats in your purse) and let's hit the runways.
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| Gasp! |
We are all waiting to see who will take over Dior officially.......
Everyone has been talking about the possibility of Marc Jacobs moving from LV to Miss Dior ......however according to Dior, they do not want to make any announcements during fashion week, let's keep our fingers crossed this is just another ploy. by Emily Daccarett September 27, 2011
Next Step American Vogue......
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| Mock up cover with Kate Middleton My ohh my could it be that everyone's favorite Duchess will grace the cover of American Vogue?!?According to "Page Six" there has been talk between Kate and Anna Wintour ( or more like Ms. Wintour "quietly persuasively campaigning"). How does she plan on doing this, get Mario Testino, longtime friend of the British Monarchy, to hold Kate's hand,who tends to shy away from the press, through the whole process. by Emily Daccarett September 26 2011 |
Soiree Fendi O' a Milan
Fendi held the 2nd stage of Fendi O' party on september 23rd in Milan. This event was created to celebrate the fashion house's original and creative sides. Guests like Isabell Fontana, Anja Rubik, Bianca Brandolini d'Adda, Bianca Baite danced in the Magazzini Porta Genova, decorated with yellow graffiti and a giant version of Fendi's new parfume " Fan" at the entrance. Setting the party's mood were DJ sets by Andy Fletcher of Depeche Mode, Afrojack, and Nervo. What better parting gift......a Fendi CD with every invitation. by Emily Daccarett September 25 2011
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| Delfina Delettrez Fendi |
Tavi Gevinson graces the cover of L'Official
Little Tavi Gevinson only 15 years old and already a much coveted fashion blogger, has her very own magazine (Rookie) and now on the cover of the October issue of L'Official Paris. She was shot by renown french photographer Jean-Pual Guade for the magazine's 90th anniversary. Wearing all black and white Chanel, our little miss, sits on an oversized chair while taking down notes. "Thank heaven for little girls"....they all grow up to love fashion. by Emily Daccarett September 25 2011
Blumarine launches Pre-collection "Urban Wild"
Urban Wild" an exclusive collection of only 12 pieces was made available september 23rd in Blumarine boutiques. A small detour into the urban jungle, this collection celebrates the leopard print from the italian house of Anna Molinari, while still offering us a minimalist sophistication with simple yet feminine cuts. by Emily Daccarett September 25 2011
Francesco Scognamiglo collaboration with Misaki
Francesco Scognamiglo is joining forces with Misaki, known for it's innovative pearl jewelry.
This collection is exclusive to Milan during the Francesco Scognamiglo Spring/Summer 2012 runway and will become available in the boutiques at the same time as PAP spring/summer 2012.
by Emily Daccarett September 25 2011
by Emily Daccarett September 25 2011
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| Irresistible to say the least- sigh |
Moschino Cheap and Chic 2012 Milan
No need to rush over to your local farmer's market, Moschino Cheap and Chic has all the produce you need to keep you healthy and above all stylish. Starting with the radish seed invitations and a venu that would make Monoprix cry, Rossella Jardini let her green thumb take over Milan. Many short girly frocks in prints of radishes, carrots, wheat, and grass that seemed to be watercolored on made their way down the catwalk. Giant apple appliques and a strawberry dress with black jet beads represented the fruit on this colorful menu. This collection is very young and frilly and does not take itself too seriously (it's hard not to laugh at the model stabbed in the head with a carrot). Another highlight- Moschino's fruit and flower stalls were real so guests got to fill their bags with fresh goods! by Emily Daccarett September 24 2011Marni Spring 2012 Ready-to- Wear
Consuelo Castiglione has taken the classic housewife through different frontiers; futuristic, sexy, and even a bit tribal. The show began with solid pastel colors and quickly morphed into a colorful palate of floral and geometric prints. The simple silhouettes and textures, such as 3D fabrics and laser cut hems, took this collection from retro to modern chic. Prints were made more interesting by combining textures like the navy circle leather dress.
The transparent skirt that peeped out added a sensualness and allure without being too sexy. The sexiness was very subtle, plunging box shaped necklines made the looks less severe, as well as clean lines with super short hemlines. Many people are already raving about the accessories, oversized chunky circle earrings, some even looked as if they were cutouts of some of the prints, and not to mention thin nude socks with heels - Love. All in all a great way to await warmer weather, and remind us of sunny days. by Emily Daccarett September 24 2011
Alexa Chung for Madewell Collection 2011
Effortlessly cool is Alexa Chung's second collection for Madewell, which gives off a vibe of throwing whatever was in your closet in a bag and jumping into your car for an unplanned road trip. A fusion between 90's and 70's style, we see grunge shirts, cozy sweaters, palm tree printed pajama pants ( tribute to the "it" girl's love for the tropical tree), white lace dress, denim shorts, and a patriot through and through the peter pan collar.
Without a doubt thousands waited impatiently on their computers for the September 22nd launch, getting ready to become clones of Ms. Chung, and buying everything available. After consumers crashed the J-Crew offshoot's site (online retailer was not prepared for such high demand), we are limited to only two of each item.
The Campaign was shot in Austin Texas, of course Alexa Chung as model. The result is American backroads, small town, and open fields, making us fall in love with the collection and Alexa Chung even more, especially when she winks at the camera. by Emily Daccarett September 24 2011
LA SOIREE DES EMMY AWARD 2011
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| Gwyneth Paltrow in Emilio Pucci |
About Gwyneth : Le Nokia Theatre était en ébullition hier soir lors de la 63e cérémonie des Emmy Awards. Les stars du petit écran américain ont été récompensées et les actrices étaient toutes plus belles les unes que les autres. Au programme, du glamour, des paillettes et des robes de créateurs. Best-of !
Gwyneth Paltrow n'est plus l'actrice sage des années 90. Alors qu'elle a remporté la semaine dernière l'Emmy de la Meilleure actrice invitée dans une série (pour Glee) lors de la première partie des Emmy Awards, l'actrice était venue hier soir pour soutenir le cast du show.
Et quelle apparition ! Gwyneth Paltrow a fait fureur dans un ensemble Emilio Pucci, un top et une jupe longue, qui laissait apparaître son joli ventre bronzé. La tenue poudrée et recouverte de tulle noire et de sequins de la même couleur, lui donnait un air absolument sexy. Des sandales Roger Vivier venaient complèter le look parfait de Gwyneth Paltrow. Alors que la plupart des actrices présentes avaient opté pour des robes de princesse, l'actrice de Country Song a pris des risques pour un résultat plus qu'à la hauteur.
About Drew : Quant à Drew Barrymore, elle a éblouit la scène dans une robe Givenchy Haute couture fall 2011 porté par Joan Smalls lors de la presentation. Une robe du soir en tulle composée d 'une blouse brodé de fil d 'or et de franges perlés, une longue jupe en organza brodés de perles.
Drew Barrymore was wearing a Joan Smalls models look from the Givenchy Haute Couture Fall 2011 collection. The look: Greige tulle evening gown: blouse entirely embroidered with a golden thread and small fringes of pearls, weighed down by pendants of pearls; long skirt with pearl-embroidered pinstripes worn under a sleeveless organza tunic embroidered with pearls.
Carine Roitfield Irrévérent
About Drew : Quant à Drew Barrymore, elle a éblouit la scène dans une robe Givenchy Haute couture fall 2011 porté par Joan Smalls lors de la presentation. Une robe du soir en tulle composée d 'une blouse brodé de fil d 'or et de franges perlés, une longue jupe en organza brodés de perles.
Drew Barrymore was wearing a Joan Smalls models look from the Givenchy Haute Couture Fall 2011 collection. The look: Greige tulle evening gown: blouse entirely embroidered with a golden thread and small fringes of pearls, weighed down by pendants of pearls; long skirt with pearl-embroidered pinstripes worn under a sleeveless organza tunic embroidered with pearls.
Pour tout savoir sur la carrière audacieuse de l'ex-prêtresse de Vogue France, rendez-vous le 18 octobre prochain lors de la sortie de son premier livre, intitulé '" Irreverent " (éditions Rizzoli USA). Dans cet ouvrage très personnel de 368 pages, c'est avec ses meilleures éditoriales et ses shootings pour Vogue (annotées de sa propre main) , à l'appui qu'elle livre enfin ses mémoires.
Qui aurait cru que c'est par la petite porte que la fashion business woman de 56 ans avait percé dans la mode ?Repérée à Paris, à l'âge de 18 ans, dans les années 80 elle devient rédactrice et styliste à Elle magazine, puis ensuite la consultante et la muse de Tom Ford - pendant sa période " porno-chic " chez Gucci.
Depuis son départ de Vogue France en janvier dernier, (elle avait laissé sa place à Emmanuelle Alt) après 10 ans à la tête du célèbre magazine de mode, Carine Roitfeld enchaîne les projets personnels, notamment aux États-Unis.
" Irreverent " est actuellement disponible en pré-commande sur colette.fr et Amazon.com. Prix : 82 euros.
Un deuxième livre signé Carine Roitfeld, une co-édition avec Karl Lagerfeld, est prévu pour le mois de décembre.
LA ROBE HUITRE DE PIPPA MIDDLETON A LA FASHION WEEK LONDONIENNE
On se demande désormais comment on a pu faire pour passer à côté de Pippa Middleton avant le mariage de sa soeur Kate Middleton avec le Prince William ! Désormais, on la voit à tous les événements, etsimple sortie dans la rue crée l'événement !
Evidemment, en tant que nouvelle icône, Pippa Middleton ne pouvait pas passer à côté de la Fashion week à Londres… Elle s'y est donc rendue dès hier, et a dû bien profiter des défilés, puisqu'elle était assise au premier rang, entre l'actrice Rosario Dawson et la célébrité fêtarde Peaches Geldof.
Pour être raccord avec le défilé Temperley qu'elle était venue regarder, Pippa Middleton portait une courte robe Temperley noire et crème et des bottines noires. Pour mémoire, c'est Alice Temperley elle-même qui avait dessiné la longue robe turquoise portée par Pippa Middleton lors de la réception qui a suivi le mariage de sa soeur Kate avec le Prince William. A l'époque déjà, cette tenue n'était pas passée inaperçue, même si c'est la robe blanche Alexander McQueen qui avait fait sensation ce jour là, et révélé Pippa aux yeux du monde entier en quelques heures.En étant une nouvelle fois le centre d'attention de la foule et des photographes lors de la Fashion week au défilé Temperley, Pippa Middleton aura certainement fait oublier le "faux-pas" dont l'a accusé la presse britannique tout le week-end : elle s'était en effet rendue au mariage d'un ami vêtue d'une tenue vert clair, considérée comme une couleur portant malchance si elle est portée le jour d'un mariage.
EMILY BLUNT NOUVELLE EGERIE D OPIUM DE YSL
Rien ne semble freiner l’ascension fulgurante d’Emily Blunt. L’actrice britannique, qui était récemment de passage au FIFT pour la première de son film Salmon Fishing in the Yemen, est désormais la nouvelle égérie du parfum Opium d’Yves Saint Laurent. Voici le commentaire qu’elle a émis concernant le fait d’avoir la chance de représenter ce parfum classique, qui disparaît littéralement des tablettes, depuis les années 70 : «C’est une expérience extraordinaire que de représenter ce parfum de légende qui a traversé le temps sans jamais voir son pouvoir altéré.» Nous attendons donc avec grande impatience le lancement de la campagne orchestrée par Patrick Demarchelier, qui aura lieu au mois d’octobre. Tout ce que nous savons, pour l’instant, c’est qu’un léopard bien en chair et en os sera de la partie. Besoin d’en dire plus?
